The Fujifilm community has been expressing growing frustration about autofocus problems, which seem to have worsened after the latest firmware updates, including the summer version featuring the Reala Ace simulation. Many users, especially those with models like the X-T5, X-H2S, X-H2, GFX100 II, and X-S20, have encountered difficulties using continuous autofocus (AF-C), particularly when shooting moving subjects.
Fujifilm, known for listening to its community, has recently announced (October 2024) that they are working on a new firmware for the X-H2, X-H2S, and GFX100 II, which should improve autofocus. Yuji Igarashi, Head of Fujifilm's Professional Imaging Division, also confirmed that updates are in progress to address the issue on the X-T5 and X-S20, with the firmware expected to be released by the end of 2024.
While we wait for an official fix, this article will show you some tips to temporarily solve Fujifilm autofocus issues. Please share this article with anyone you know who might be facing the same problem!
It's important to clarify that Fujifilm's autofocus is by no means “terrible.” However, there are specific scenarios where it can struggle, such as shooting in backlit conditions or when there's a lot of variation in light within the same scene. In these cases, the camera might sometimes give a “false positive” by indicating the focus is correct (green light) when, in reality, the image is slightly out of focus. We're not talking about completely blurry shots, but rather images with reduced sharpness or a somewhat “soft” look.
That said, these situations are rare. If you’ve never found yourself in such extreme conditions, you’ve probably not had any major issues with Fujifilm’s autofocus. However, with recent firmware updates, some users have noticed a decline in autofocus performance, especially in more challenging contexts.
While other brands may handle similar extreme situations better, this doesn't diminish the overall quality of Fujifilm's autofocus system, which remains reliable in most cases. But if you’ve been struggling and are looking for solutions, follow the instructions below to improve your autofocus performance.
A common example of this type of scenario is when the subject is backlit or when there are quick changes in light, causing the camera to struggle due to the lack of contrast. For example, think of a bride entering a church and walking down the aisle—something many wedding photographers deal with. In these extreme cases, here are the settings I recommend using:
AF Mode: Single Point
Face/Eye Detection: Face ON, Eyes OFF
AF-C Custom Setting: Set to 5
Pre-AF: ON
Release/Focus Priority: Focus
High-speed burst mode CH: 10 fps or higher
Think of a basketball or volleyball game in a gym. Even though the lighting might look good to the naked eye, for many cameras, it's a challenging situation. In these cases, it's best to set focus to a single point or, even better, a zone. The camera might show you the green square to indicate focus is locked, but the photo might still come out slightly blurry. Here are some “lifesaver” settings that can help:
AF Mode: Single Point or 3x3 Zone
Face/Eye Detection: Face OFF, Eyes OFF
AF-C Custom Setting: Set to 5
Pre-AF: ON
Release/Focus Priority: Focus
High-speed burst mode CH: 10 fps or higher
This situation can be tricky for landscape photographers using wide-angle lenses. What happens is that, on the distance scale (to activate it, go to Set Up > Screen Settings > Customize Display and make sure the distance indicator is checked for both AF and MF), the focus point jumps back and forth from infinity to 10 meters while you try to focus. In these cases, along with the recommended settings below, it's crucial to check that the focus is set to infinity before shooting.
Distance Scale: Enabled even in AF mode
AF Mode: All
Focus Area: Medium-sized point (5x5)
Alternatively, switching to Manual Focus (MF) always works.
Now, let’s talk about using the camera in video mode, like for vlog creators. Think of when you put your hands in front of the lens to show a product. Compared to earlier firmware versions, autofocus handling has gotten worse (older firmware was much more reliable). Here are the recommended settings to use:
Focus Area: Medium-sized point
Face/Eye Detection: Face OFF, Eyes OFF
AF Mode: Area
AF-C Custom Setting: Tracking sensitivity +2, AF speed -2
One final option to fix autofocus issues could be downgrading the firmware, meaning installing an older version of the camera's software.
WARNING: This process is highly discouraged if you’re not completely sure what you’re doing. You could end up bricking your camera, leaving you with no solution other than sending it to a specialized Fujifilm service center.
Keep in mind that downgrading to an older firmware version will cause you to lose some recent features, like the Reala Ace simulation.
I won’t provide the exact steps, but I’ll share a Reddit page that explains everything in detail. Just to be clear, I’m not recommending this path: if you choose to do it, it’s entirely your responsibility. Here’s the link:
As I mentioned earlier, please share this article as much as possible, especially if you know photographers who use Fujifilm for their work. It’s important to spread this information, particularly to those who rely on their gear for professional results. The more people know, the easier it will be to find solutions and share experiences. Sharing this article could really make a difference for those struggling with Fujifilm autofocus issues.
